9/20 I’m up before dawn having slept early the night before. The solitude, the fresh morning, the edge of light elevate my spirits. Just for today, I tell myself. Along the Camino route are water founts where pilgrims can refresh themselves. Not far from the hotel is the Irache wine fountain, though when I pass by, the spigot is dry. Not that I would.
The morning is hopeful, but as the afternoon brings oppressive heat and physical exhaustion, my spirits begin to fall. That is, until I come upon three pilgrims. Matt, an American is a self-proclaimed IT geek, thirty-something, blond, and soft looking. A long-term girlfriend he was living with broke up with him and stayed in their home. At the same time, he was laid off from his job. Matt packed his belongings into storage and hit the Camino path.
Leslie, also American is thirty-something, petite, long dark hair, and with a marriage hanging in the balance. She loves her husband but also loves the woman with whom she’s had a long-term affair. After years of trying to convince her doctors she had a tumor in her brain, Leslie’s tumor was found and removed right before she left for the Camino. She’s struggling physically. Leslie explains that she’s clairvoyant and knows a close friend is ill and resists death. She walks for a different loved one each day and today she walks for this friend.
Bridgette is Canadian, fifty-something, wiry, with a gray/blond ponytail. She’s curious about Leslie’s clairvoyant ability but inevitably sees the world in black and white. I am fascinated by each. The starkly different four of us walk along, sans Toto, sharing our stories and our sunscreen, and after a while, the heat doesn’t seem as unbearable.
Matt and Leslie met earlier on the Camino. Once they started walking together Matt slowed his pace out of concern for Leslie’s health. One night when all the albergues were full, a local woman invited them to stay at her house. Tonight they decide to stay in Los Arcos. I stop with them to share a snack from a small grocery while Bridgette walks on. We stand outside on the narrow commercial lane eating fresh peach pie. A black sedan speeds through as I jump out of the way. Leslie observes me and says, “don’t take it personally.” She’s an empath who trusts herself. I’m an empath that doubts myself.
I miss my newfound intimates but must walk on to decrease the miles I need to walk tomorrow, and I want to take advantage of my current energy. By the time I reach Torres del Rio I catch up with Bridgette. Together, we find an albergue, Casa Mariela, attached to a tiny grocery and cafe. We are assigned to the same room but disappointedly not in adjacent bunks.
While waiting in line for the shower, my short sleeves expose the unfinished tattoo of my late cat Cory. He lived to age 18. Cory was all black and his face stands out on my right arm. A retired French couple, Frédéric and Pauli pass by, and Pauli is excited to see the cat on my arm. We try to speak our different languages about the cat, but her joy is clear and nurturing.
After showering, Bridgette and I order a beverage and sit outside with some other pilgrims. I meet Canadian, retired married couple Genie and Len who are avid cyclists and arrived on the Camino with two other American couples they met online. Genie and Len are generous with their stories about the drama among their group so far. The Second couple, Alex and his girlfriend Serena broke up and Alex broke away from walking with the group. Alex tends to pay a lot of attention to female pilgrims and tries to woo them with his stories of being a retired doctor and author. The third couple Pat and Dennis walk at different paces so Dennis is hanging with the original group while Pat walks on her own.
A large group of pilgrims staying at Casa Mariela dine a short walk away. The upstairs where we sit looks provides a medieval scene with stone walls and an enormous, well-worn wooden table. I get to sit next to Frédéric and Pauli. The welcoming warmth of the Spanish restaurant owners tops off the evening.
Hi my sweet Stella, I arrived in Torres del Rio (past Los Arcos). A great 23K day started before sunrise with gorgeous time alone and just the right people to walk with later. A super-sensitive techie guy, a wacky wonderful guru girl, and a level-headed Canadian woman to round out the day. I’m over the difficult hump for today. Thank you for your loving pep talk that helped me move through the crisis. I think I’ll stay a little longer..at least one more day. I love you with all my heart.