9/15 The day to day walking schedule I keep is based upon the guidebook by John Brierley. I’m in good company with most of the Northern Hemisphere seeing his guidebook as the bible of the Camino. I begin today already 3.4 miles behind schedule and a pack full of dirty clothes that I procrastinated on washing the night before. All this imperfection is weighing heavily on me. The guidebook has me walking through Pamplona today, where I’d like to stop and spend some time that I didn’t account for in my overall plan.
Every day I rely emphatically on the maps in my guidebook. I count how many hills (two today, 1,181 ft accrued ascent) and the distance between villages with cafe or refreshment sites (the longest is 3.3 mi). Today I discover that the maps are not to scale which works against me, and I feel a moment of devastation. The cumulative physical fatigue from walking and jet lag, the lack of perfection, and the hot weather are wearing on my spirits.
Charlene: I strongly suspect this is a conspiracy created by the Spaniards against unsuspecting foreigners, particularly chubby Americans, to kill us. I’ll text you when I arrive at my destination and am thinking more clearly 🙂
Stella: Ha ha I am watching the date/location and looking forward to the update. My chubby American in Spain is too strong to be killed but she may not be enjoying life. I hope she finds “the zone” some time during the long haul.
The path, though offroad is never far from the main thoroughfare. As I reach the Pamplona suburbs the soft earth is replaced by concrete and the bottom of my feet are burning in my boots from all the walking. I stop at a bench along a waterway in a suburb called Villava, take off my boots and socks, and mope. Although I could trudge 2.9 more miles to the city center albergue and still be only 3.2 miles behind, all of these small facts and numbers seem enormous and overwhelming to me on the Camino.
A pilgrim called Nikee sees my dejection and comes to talk. She convinces me to stop for the day and stay with a group of pilgrims at Trinidad de Arre. The albergue is a 41- bed former monastery and pilgrim hospital behind a basilica church. I follow Nikee there and pay my 8 euros.
Charlene: I’m showered and my clothes are washed. Dinner is at 7 and Pilgrims Mass is at 9. Staying in a former monastery in Villava (not yet to Pamplona). Will walk there tomorrow. Only a few kilometers and either stay in a hotel or go to hostel in Cizor Menor. My attitude is better and the others staying here are familiar. Everyone on the pilgrimage is so lovely. My love to you Stella and to my babies.
Stella: Sitting here with Fran now. Opie is on the patio. We miss you more than you can imagine! I will update your email group on your travels. Sleep well Hun Bun 🙂
After my shower, I’m on my bunk organizing my belongings. I notice a man (I’ll call him John) noticing me as he catches my eye for a moment. John is across the way on another bunk. I read the moment as attraction coming toward me, and I am vexed because it is happening in this coed bunk setting. I could easily feel afraid, but I did not.
An outside shed has two clothes dryers for our use. When it’s finally my turn I put my hand-washed clothes in the dryer. John is close by and asks if there is room for his clothes. I say no and explain that I have a large number of clothes (yesterday’s and today’s) to dry.
Later after dark, I go to check my clothes. I hear footsteps behind me, following me in the dark. When I arrive at the shed, I turn and see who it is. It’s John. I quickly grab my still damp clothes and free the dryer. He comments to me in a low voice “just so you know, on the Camino we share the limited facilities.” I really want to say, but can’t think fast enough, “just so you know, on the Camino (and off), don’t follow women in the dark or stare at them in coed dorms.”