9/13 The hostel bathroom is like one you’d find in a gymnasium, maybe a medieval gymnasium! Multiple toilets, multiple sinks, multiple showers, multiple women. I hold tight to my clean clothing and toiletries while waiting for a shower. I’m suddenly aware of my filth: Dried sweat, sticky with dirt on my arms, legs, face. The smell of sweat and sunscreen on my clothes. When it’s my turn I look for a dry space to put my clothes but the only dry spot is on the floor outside the shower. Gross. ‘Get over it’ I tell myself. The shower faucet must be pushed and held on for it to run. The water is warm, but I can tell I’m getting the last bit from the boiler. I run it as long as seems appropriate. Then soap up good with a shower puff I brought from home (.4 oz). Finally another run of the water for a rinse. My whole body feels beaten, but I am clean.
My tiny towel doesn’t wrap around my body, so I just cover what I can and dress in a dry corner. I don’t want to touch my dirty clothes, but I know the next chore is laundry. It isn’t until after I fumbled through washing my shirt and pants and socks and underthings in the small bathroom sink that I discovered there is a big laundry sink around the corner.
By this time the sun is giving its last efforts so I put my things with others on the clothesline outside. I keep checking them while waiting for the 7 pm pilgrim dinnertime. I study my guidebook to get my head ready for tomorrow’s walk which has a little climbing, but is mostly downhill.
I enter the restaurant and see multiple tables with red tablecloths and ten chairs, mostly full of pilgrims. I guess I should have shown up earlier to be seated by 7 pm. I am quickly directed to sit at a table with a group of Scandinavian pilgrims who all know one another. They have already finished their first course, a salad. They try to tell me to tell the waiter to bring my salad. I don’t understand them. I feel them watching me…or am I paranoid.
My appetite is absolutely ravenous. I can hardly wait to see what’s served. The second course arrives and is spaghetti with marinara sauce served family-style (sharing again!). We all take a proper serving. I watch to see how much each person takes. I watch to see how much is left in the bowl. As I eat the spaghetti on my plate, all I can think about is what is left in that bowl. I’m thinking the next course will be dessert and my appetite is not abating. Soon, everyone is done. No one is taking seconds of the spaghetti. I reach questioningly to the bowl. I’m given the go-ahead. I give myself a second helping and finish it in no time. there is still one last bit in the bowl. I look around. No one is paying attention to the bowl. Again I reach questioningly. I’m again given the go-ahead. I finish off the bowl in almost one fell swoop from bowl to plate to mouth. They are watching me.
Now, I’m not full-full, but I’m not so ravenous. Maybe with dessert, I will be ok, I think. Bowl and plates are cleared. And then, the next course comes out and it is fish! Like a whole fish, head, tail, and all on the plate. So I needn’t have worried so much. we were not done. I can’t say what kind of fish, It’s bony but fresh and delicious. even the skin is crisp and tasty. I realize then, that this is the most delicious meal I’ve ever had in my whole entire life! (until tomorrow night).
Teeth brushed, laundry on racks indoors to dry, maybe 50 others squeaking on their bunks, preparing for the 9 pm lights out, I lay in my bunk contented. The day is finally, finally done.
Charlene 8:41 pm Made it to Roncevalles by 5:30 pm. I’m very very tired. Jet lag made a hard day all the more hard. Really should have planned for a day in between travel and starting. The path was impossibly beautiful and varied. Staying in a former church with 100 beds in one room! XOXO
Stella 9:08 pm This of all days, glad for the update. I have passed along the message. Everyone is really enjoying your trip. Haha Sleep well! I hope you feel a bit more rested tomorrow. We are watching our maps. XXOO